People come to Bali for many reasons: its rich culture, its beaches and waves, its conferences, or simply to rest. If you love nature, one place deserves a full day: Jatiluwih, the rice terraces that run from the foothills of the Batukaru volcano towards the south coast.
A road through village life
Leave your hotel early, around nine. Cars and minivans can be hired with or without a driver; agree on the price before setting off. Motorbikes are cooler and pleasant, but risky.
After the town of Tabanan, the road heads north through small villages. Along the way you see the Bali people picture when they think of the island: farmhouses, little shrines with offerings to Dewi Sri, the goddess of rice, ploughing, flocks of ducks feeding in the flooded paddies, and the harvest. If farmers are planting or harvesting, you can ask to join them for a moment; visitors are usually welcomed with a smile.
Children everywhere greet you with a cheerful "Hello tourist!" followed by giggles. Older people ask, more quietly, "mau kemana?", where are you going?
Butterflies, hot springs and a mountain temple
On the way, a butterfly park lets you watch tropical butterflies of every colour. Further on, near a temple, a hot spring rises from the riverbank; such natural wonders are believed to be visited by spirits, and a small shrine stands there for prayers and offerings.
The road ends at Pura Luhur Batukaru, one of the most venerated temples of the island, at the foot of the 2,276-metre mountain, alone in a clearing of dense rainforest: wild orchids, healing herbs, spices and tall trees.
Jatiluwih, "truly marvellous"
The goal of the journey is the mountain village of Jatiluwih, whose name means "truly marvellous". Its cascading terraces, among the most fertile on the island, are often called Bali's rice granary, and from the cool uplands the view takes in half the island.
On the way you pass coffee, coconut, cocoa, clove, jackfruit, banana, papaya, soursop, rambutan, mango and the famously smelly durian.
The western uplands are perfect for hiking; bring a picnic, or stop for lunch at a restaurant overlooking the terraces and the sacred volcano.
